Cover stitch hem preparation

 

 

 

 

CS Tutorial 1

 

This first photo is showing a hem pressed.  If you try to sew over this area where the serged seams are stacked up with a cover stitch machine, at the very least you will get a pile up of smaller stitches as the feed dogs struggle to push over the extra bulk.  More likely you will get skipped stitches.  So, open up that nicely pressed hem:

 

 

 

 

CS Tutorial 2

 

And see where the fold is pressed into the seam allowance.  Here is where you will clip to, but not through the furthest needle thread in the serged seam:

CS Tutorial 3

 

And flip the seam allowance in the hem the opposite direction from the seam allowance in the body of the garment:

CS tutorial 4

 

Now you can fold the hem back into place along the pressed line and the seam allowances will nest and be much flatter:

CS tutorial 5

 

Be sure to put a pin here to hold everything in this orientation before you begin sewing the hem.  I have been doing this for years and have never had a seam pull out in the hem area as a result of that clip.  Please ignore the bad manicure, or actually, the complete lack of manicure, and ragged cuticles.  I went straight back to the lotion after every hand-washing and cuticle cream at night regimen as soon as I saw this photo.

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